Digital Draping Journal #6 - Foundation Garments

DIGITAL JOURNAL #6 - FOUNDATION GARMENTS

For this class, we started by preparing a swimsuit block for our fit model. My model was Michelle from my class, who happens to fit a perfect size 8 standard size, so I used the instructor's block as my pattern. I decided to eliminate the waist darts in my pattern by taking an amount off the side seam in order to eliminate as many darts as possible to leave more room for design lines. I used the widest crotch line and shoulder line so that I would have more room to play with my design lines on my model.

The purpose of this exercise was to take a basic block from our model's measurements, fit it on our model, make fit changes, draw in design lines, fit bra cups and/or draw in an underwire line, and drape a piece of fabric onto the body. The challenge here was to conduct a professional, efficient, and successful fitting where we would practice translating design ideas directly to the body.

This is one of my inspiration photos in terms of the design lines I wanted to achieve. I was going for a halter-like neck with lower cut armholes.

Here is an example of a more classically cut swimsuit with a different kind of halter neck.

This example is a very similar fit and look to our actual swimsuit block.

I sewed up the block using a 0.5 cm seam allowance on the serger. I used a black t-shirt knit fabric with moderate stretch.

I prepared bra cups to fit onto my model. The bra cup block that I used was much too large when I first sewed them up (looked more like a DD cup when my model was an A-B cup), so I had to adjust the size a bit. In the above photo you can see that I trimmed off approx. 1.5 cm from both sides of the cup.

Here are the cups sewn up again, looking much more like a B cup now.

This is a lace knit fabric that I prepared for draping onto my model.

Here is the look of my block on my model. As you can see, there are no fitting issues or changes necessary as my model is a size 8. The bust point was also at a very nice spot, with the dart ending right at my model's bust point. 

I drew in the design lines I wanted, along with tentatively pinning a bra cup on. I decided to pin one bra cup on top of the block for better viewing, and I put another cup inside of the swimsuit. The crotch, neck, and shoulder widths were my major concerns as they were quite wide and needed adjusting to achieve a more flattering look.

Back view of my model with more design lines draw in. At first, I was going for a racer back, but then I decided to make the cut out even larger to show more of a side view.

*If anything, there may be some slight fit issues with the back waist of my model, but that could also be some issues in the sewing. If necessary, I would shorten the back by 1-1.5 cm for a better fit.

The bra cup I tentatively made was still a little too large for my model. I took in 0.75 cm on both sides of the cup to adjust. 

I was a little unsure of how to drape the fabric nicely onto my block. At first, I tried to make a shawl-like sleeve covering, but this was a bit tacky looking.

Next, I tried to create a cowl-like sleeve on my model, but this design would have issues attaching to my low-cut side design lines.

Finally, I tried making side ruffles over the hips, which was probably the more successful draping attempt. 

I cut out the design line I made for the side armhole area. As you can see, the cut is very low and revealing, so the wearer would have to take care in how much side boob is showing as they wear it. This design is definitely more suited for small to medium chested woman, who would have an easier time keeping the suit closer fitting in the side chest area.

I would extend the existing dart line down into the side seam as I have drawn it above so that the point of the dart doesn't end uncomfortably on the bust point on an actual garment.

Here is the back view with the design line cut out. As you can see, it is essentially a very low dipped racer back. With the other side cut out, the back strip would be quite narrow.

I tried pinning some lace trim on the armholes to provide some additional coverage to the side chest area. I think that this would be a good way to add some coverage!

Back view

Here is where I drew the bra cup to sit most effectively on my model. I decided not to do an underwire line because I wanted this to be a more relaxed fit as opposed to being very structured and fitted.

This is the additional adjustment of 0.75 cm on both sides that is needed for the bra cup.

Challenges: I think a very challenging component was being comfortable to do the fitting professionally with my model. My model was very professional and compromising with me, and we were able to overcome the initial awkwardness of both of us being new to doing such intimate fittings.

I can see how fit issues would also be a major challenge that may take a few fittings in itself to resolve. I am fortunate to have chosen a compromising knit fabric for my fitting, would allows for slight variations in the fit as opposed to using a muslin woven fabric.

I think that this experience is a stepping stone for me to getting used to doing actual fittings on models, which can be quite stressful in terms of time restrictions and trying to be as efficient as possible. I found that drawing and focusing on half the body made things a lot faster. However, I do see the value in drawing in the full design lines so that you can see the balance of how things would actually look.