Digital Draping Journal #5 - Twist Top & Collars

DIGITAL DRAPING JOURNAL #5 - TWIST TOP & COLLARS

This class, we draped a twist top and 3 collars on the size 8 mannequins.

TWIST TOP:

Twist top example similar to what we did in class, but without a yokeline. The twist is still high above the bust, much the one in the following exercise.

Here's a detailed view of something very similar to our twist top, but this one dips lower to rest at the bust.

Here's a more draped variation that doesn't have the twist sewn into a yoke. This allows the twist to hang nicely and be fuller and wider.

Before starting the drape, we placed some pins on the mannequin to serve as some guide points. These pins are up to you depending on how far down the body you want the yoke line, as well as how cinched in the top of the twist will be. Mark the desired yokeline with a horizontal piece of draping tape, and a smaller horizontal piece to denote the top of the twist.

The lower the yoke line, the more the center/fullness of the twist will be towards the bust area. For my yokeline, the twist sits slightly above the bustline. It is important to consider how the twist will look sitting on or near the bust as it will add a significant amount of fullness!

Starting with a rectangular piece for the yoke/top portion of the twist top with these measurements:

The 2 cm edge is folded in on the desired yokeline, matching the CF line. Cut into the neck to release some fullness for easier draping.

Smotoh fabric flat and pin and HPS and shoulders. Gather down the neckline to the marked point on the mannequin for how low you want the neckline.

Pins and HPS/shoulder are important to keep the drape from shifting as you pull down the neckline.

You can cut away some excess around the neckline (leave about 3 cm) to better assist you with the neckline gathers.

Fold in the raw edges at the neck.

Pin the neck back down, draw in the actual neckline.

Notch the yokeline 5 cm to the left and right of CF. this is to help attach the lower part of the twist later.

Pin a rectangle piece of fabric to the mannequin to cover from CF to side seam, going a little but past the waist and a few cm above your marked yokeline. Pin up and down along CF, the smooth from waist to SS, then up to the armhole. Make as smooth as possible, but drag lines are to be expected!

The excess between the armhole and CF becomes a "dart", which needs to be marked and should hit the bust point almost exactly. This dart later is converted to gathers in the twist.

Here's the patter piece with SA. The top of the dart is placed on fold to mirror the opposite side of the body (note the grainline is changed from CF).

Mirrored piece.

Cutting fabric.

Sewing process, attaching the yoke.

Detail of twist area.

Our top on a mannequin: our whole class, everyone tested different fabrics to see which would be most suitable to this design. My fabric was a cotton sateen and it caused issues with extra bulk at the CF below the twist.

See the bulk here, pattern would need further adjustment to remove excess.

A light knit example of the twist: the twist sits flatter against body, this one also has slight excess bulk at the CF.

Non-stretch polyester, the drape looks forced and not as soft, could be better.

Silk chiffon, very difficult to work with, the chiffon is too loose/light for this design.

White knit, has stretch so works well for fit and probably works the best for this design.

Black polyester satin, there was a lot of excess at the CF, and the twist sat too flat against the body.

Brown stretch woven, this worked quite well with good fit at the CF and nice dimension of the twist.

PETER PAN COLLAR:

(This example is probably a full roll)

Peter pan collars can have full rolls or partial rolls, making them stand up at the neck, We draped a partial roll, which adds nice dimension to the collar.

Muslin piece to prepare for the drape.

Pin 2 cm fold at CB, raw edge should be about 1.25 above neck. Pin around back neck to HPS.

Once the back neck is drawn in, remove all pins except for at HPS. Pivot at HPS about 2-3 cm to create the roll.

There will be a lot of excess at Cf, you can trim this off!

Secure some pins at CF and above the bust and ensure the front neck sits smoothly.

Clip into the front neck to release some fabric.

Draw in the desired front neck, as well as the the collar. Remember to lower the front neck at Cf so that it won't choke the neck!

Back collar is also drawn in.

After taking the collar off, you will see that the neck is not smooth. This will be trued in the neck step of creating the roll.

Cut out the peter pan shape, leave the edges at the neckline for now.

Pin the drawn neckline to the mannequin body, the right side down this time.

After folding this down, there should be around a 1 cm roll that tapers to 0 cm at CF.

Back view.

Draw in the roll line.

Remove from mannequin, true the pattern and notice how the roll line looks.

Pattern with SA.

MANDARIN COLLAR:

This is a simple collar that has no roll, it stands straight up and was often used in military uniforms.

Start with a rectangular piece.

Pin up CB, clip into the back neck to get the desired neckline shape.

We must create some ease at the HPS, so take in about 0.5 cm to help the collar sit closer to the neck. Pin the front neck

Draw in the desired mandarin shaping. The CF can be straight instead of curved depending on your design.

Pattern piece, make sure you remove the ease and true the curve of the neck.

SAILOR COLLAR:

Example of a sailor collar with minimal roll. The collar would look better with a slightly bigger roll to create dimension.

Start with a rectangular piece, and create some guidelines for the neck.

Pin at CB, leave the edge at back neck about 1.25 cm above the neck seam.

Draw in back neck.

This collar is very similar to the peter pan in how we create the roll. Remove back neck pins except HPS, pivot at HPS to create a roll.

Pin at CF.

Draw in the desired collar depending on how deep you want the neck drop and how wide you want the collar.

Take the piece off, as you can see the neck needs to be trued.

Cut out the sailor shape, pin the neckline back on the body right side down.

Fold over to create the roll.

Front view of collar. Mark the roll line.

True the neck and add seam allowance to your piece and you are done!

Challenges: I think overall, I had trouble understanding at first how to create the roll on the collars. After taking them off and doing this exercise, I now understand why the pivot is necessary to allow for extra ease.